Everyday Sommelier D e c e m b e r 2 0 1 7 5 3 adobe stock/kalim Tasting the Stars I’m often asked about my ‘Desert-Island Wine.’ The answer? It’s always champagne. By Ralph Hersom All champagne is sparkling wine, but not all sparkling wine is champagne, so the saying goes. True champagne comes from the region in northeastern France of the same name. With its wonderful sparkling qualities and complexity of flavors, it pairs well with a va- riety of foods–from triple-cream cheeses to buttered popcorn, shellfish to smoked salm- on. And, of course, it’s just as good on its own when a celebration is called for! There’s surely no better way to ring in the New Year than with a bottle of bubbly. Forget trying to find someone to kiss at midnight–the real question is, which of these champagnes will you be sipping when the ball drops? Pop the Cork According to acclaimed cellar master Jean- Baptiste Lecaillon, the magic of the Louis Roederer Brut Premier is “its structured texture, richness, and length, which are distinctly winey. It’s a full, complex wine that’s both rich and powerful while re- maining a classic.” I couldn’t agree more. The non-vintage champagne is made from a blend of 40-percent Pinot Noir, 40-per- cent Chardonnay, and 20-percent Pinot Meunier, aged for three years before re- lease. This champagne has an impeccable pedigree: Louis Roederer also produces the famed Cristal cuvée. Dynamic Duo The Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage 2008 is the seventy-second vintage from the legendary house that also produces Dom Perignon. The 2008 vintage is gener- ally considered the best since 1996. Unlike the tart 1990s wines, champagnes from 2008 have perfect balance and a delight- ful intensity of fruit. Made from a blend of 37-percent Pinot Noir, 40-percent Char- donnay, and 23-percent Pinot Meunier, each sip delivers an elegant liveliness with floral notes of honeysuckle, hints of citrus, and ripe stone fruits. Why stop there? The rosé champagne from the same legendary house of Moet & Chandon will have you tickled pink. Once again, the Grand Vintage 2008 is a stand- out wine made from a blend of 46 percent Pinot Noir (of which 20 percent is red wine), 32 percent Chardonnay, and 22 percent Pi- not Meunier. Enjoy hints of raspberry in the nose, a sweet rose petal aroma, and an im- peccable balance that will sparkle on your tongue. I could smell this wine all day long! There’s nothing like pink fizz to get a par- ty started–and this is one of the best rosé champagnes I’ve tasted in a long time. A Famous Favorite Founded in 1849, Pol Roger was well- known as Winston Churchill’s favorite champagne house. The prestige Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill was created in 1984 to honor him. The blend, which is a closely guarded family secret, is Pinot Noir-dom- inant, providing structure and breadth, while Chardonnay contributes elegance and finesse. Sourced from only Grand Cru vine- yards, this champagne is made during the best vintages–my choice being 2006–and is always released later than Pol Roger’s other vintage-dated bottles, reflecting Churchill’s appreciation for older champagnes. n RalphHersomisasommelierandownerofRRHCellarsWine Consultancy.HewasformerlytheCellarmasteratWindows OnTheWorldandWineDirectorofLeCirque2000inNYC.