Restaurant Review D e c e m b e r 2 0 1 7 5 7 Top and bottom: courtesy blue fin. Inset: Meaghan Maurice Catch of the Season Discover BlueFin at the Portland Harbor Hotel, an enchanted oasis in the heart of the hectic holiday Old Port. By Claire z. Cramer I t’s a whirlwind day of holiday shop- ping on the Portland waterfront. Sudden- ly our feet hurt and we’re starving. We sweep up the plush carpeted staircase in the foyer of the Portland Harbor Hotel, past the crackling fire by the bar, and into BlueFin. In no time, we’re settled into cushy wing chairs, glasses of prosecco and Mohua Sau- vignon Blanc in hand (each $10), overlook- ing what used to be known as Eve’s at the Garden, a serene, landscaped space used for outdoor dining in summer. A pretty lit- tle stone nymph perches at the edge of the decorative pool outside our window. Things are definitely looking up. The name has changed to BlueFin, but the executive chef at this restaurant is still the tal- ented Tim Labonte, and his menu still makes seafood the star. We can’t resist Maine Crab Cakes ($18) laced with spinach, presented on a bed of greens with a delicious grilled-corn tartar sauce and a silken slice of cured lemon. Swooshes of smoked paprika oil race around the edge of the plate. Fresh flavors join forces on the platter to complement the fresh crab without stealing the show. The crab cakes, like many dishes here, appear on both the lunch and dinner menus. Our Shrimp in the Weeds is an- other: a salad of tender sweet beets, dressed ribbons of Atlantic kelp, and baby greens ($18). Ginger vinaigrette brightens the