Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 Page 4 Page 5 Page 6 Page 7 Page 8 Page 9 Page 10 Page 11 Page 12 Page 13 Page 14 Page 15 Page 16 Page 17 Page 18 Page 19 Page 20 Page 21 Page 22 Page 23 Page 24 Page 25 Page 26 Page 27 Page 28 Page 29 Page 30 Page 31 Page 32 Page 33 Page 34 Page 35 Page 36 Page 37 Page 38 Page 39 Page 40 Page 41 Page 42 Page 43 Page 44 Page 45 Page 46 Page 47 Page 48 Page 49 Page 50 Page 51 Page 52 Page 53 Page 54 Page 55 Page 56 Page 57 Page 58 Page 59 Page 60 Page 61 Page 62 Page 63 Page 64 Page 65 Page 66 Page 67 Page 68 Page 69 Page 70 Page 71 Page 72 Page 73 Page 74 Page 75 Page 76 Page 77 Page 78 Page 79 Page 80 Page 81 Page 82 Page 83 Page 84 Page 85 Page 86 Page 87 Page 88 Page 89 Page 90 Page 91 Page 92 Page 93 Page 94 Page 95 Page 96 Page 97 Page 98 Page 99 Page 100Hungry EyE 66 p o r t l a n d monthly magazine filipp KotsishevsKiy from him.” Subsequently, Sueltenfuss (pic- tured above right) moved to Portland to work at Fore Street, Miyake, and ultimate- ly at Grace, where he was executive chef. He left to open the Other Side in early 2015 and will soon add a second location on Vaughan Street in the West End at the site of the old Vaughan Street Variety. I n his small, open deli kitchen, he accomplishes many things, in- cluding sometimes breaking down whole animals into assorted cuts. He dry- ages beef and lamb, and he makes fresh Italian sausages and delicious chicken Flo- rentine links flavored with mozzarella, Parmesan, spinach, garlic, and lemon. He smokes chicken and bacon in a little smok- er right next to his hulking range and pizza oven and cures his own pancetta (pork bel- ly seasoned with garlic and rosemary) and coppa. “Coppa is dry-cured ham, basically, but from the shoulder.” It’s dark and mar- bled, sliced tissue-thin, with an earthy, salty flavor that’s perfect with an aperitivo. These cured items are sliced to order rather than packaged, which is perfect for experiment- ing with a few slices of this and that to dis- cover what you like. If that weren’t enough, there are his house-made pâtés. He uses Commonwealth Farm chicken livers for silky terrines, Hud- son Valley duck livers for his foie gras ter- rine, and pork he sources from Maine farms including North Star in Windham and Winter Hill in Freeport for his addic- tive pistachio-studded country pork pâté. “We flavor it with warm spices like nutmeg and allspice. “Fresh sausage is a great seller for us. We offer things that people may have not had before, like duck rillettes, that they’ll come back for. Whenever we get whole animals, we’ll do a terrine that’s based on all the of- fal–innards and organ meat. That can be tough to get people to try, but once they do it’s pretty successful.” He’s a charcutier who responds to what’s available. “We had really beautiful veal ter- rine at the holidays and rabbit terrine when we can get rabbits from North Star Farm in Windham.” Since the Other Side also offers ready-to-reheat dinners, the rabbits also turned up in a rabbit stew with gnocchi. VIVE LA TOURTIèRE Nothing holds its own in the fickle world of food trends quite like tradition. “We’re still pretty small-batch, so we can keep the con- sistency and quality,” says Marc Mailhot, who has run the E.W. Mailhot Sausage Company in Lewiston for the past 20 years. Find Mailhot’s classic Franco-American sausages, pork tourtière, salmon pies, and cretons spreads in many groceries includ- ing the butcher section at Hannaford. The company opened in 1910, and “we just keep making what we make,” says Mailhot. The trendiest thing the company ever did was come out with lower-fat turkey cretons in addition to the standard pork version, and that was 25 years ago. “I’ve got a little one still in school, but if he [joins the company], he’ll be the fifth generation of Mailhots.” In the search for sausage tradition, it’s hard to beat the selection at Pat’s Meat Market, the neighborhood butcher/gro- cery/deli on Stevens Avenue. “We make sausages every day,” says Hugh Topchick, one of the market’s many personable butch- ers. “We have to keep up–they’re really popular.” He’s standing behind a glass case filled with bins of chorizo, sweet and hot Italian, chicken pesto, chicken Sicilian, Buf- falo, Caribbean bangers, and Lithuanian kielbasa links. You’ll discover how hard it is to choose. oVEr tHE BrIdgE “We make all our own sausages. All of the meat here [among them delicious cuts of beef, lamb, pork, and chicken] is from All in the family: Elliot (left) and NickVacchiano,great-grandsons of Pat,who opened the original Pat’s Meat Market in 1907,ready their saws for some serious butchery. “Nowadays, charcuterie isn’t really limited to just cured meats like ham and bacon. It includes fresh, uncured sausage and pâté, beef, and poultry livers.”