rE ta ra t rE iE f e B r u A r y / m A r C h 2 0 1 9 7 5 from toP: DIAne huDSon; CourteSy no CowArD Soul Poetic Tastes Port ese “ lories shine” at a anchored in Bath. L ike kids in a candy store, we explore the nooks and crannies at No Coward Soul. We spy a dozen comfy corners where we might alight to savor our friend- ship and a fine meal. Johnny Lomba, a former owner of The Skinny and LFK in Portland, pilots us through his new digs in Bath, his home- town. “This building housed Front Street Deli, where us kids would come and hang out and have sodas after school.” “No Coward Soul” is an Emily Brontë poem, but it’s Dickinson’s “Tell all the truth but tell it slant” that’s inlaid with typewriter keys on the lacquered bar, a Lomba touch. It brings to mind a similar design at LFK, which showcases Dickinson’s “After great pain, a formal feeling comes.” Though he’d originally planned to name the restaurant after a Dickinson poem, Lomba discovered the Brontë was actually read at Dickinson’s funeral. “It has a stirring feel to it,” Lomba says. “There’s strength in it.” aLL sHook P Paintings, photographs, tintypes, and a velvet Elvis wake up the walls—all from Lomba’s collection. A colorful piece draws us in. “Oh, that’s my uncle’s,” Lomba says. “He traded in antiques but decided he needed more money, so he took up painting. Sold a bunch.” Next, a unique portrait directs diners to the rest- rooms. “Right there, by Burl Ives.” We sit beneath a sumptuous Patrick Corrigan likeness of Captain Blythe of Longfellow’s “My Lost Youth” fame. How appropriate for “Ship City.” Inspired by Lomba’s Portuguese side— his Aunt Djica’s cooking reigns supreme in his memories—the menu is straightforward and simple, much like the cuisine itself. We begin with Beggars Soup ($8), a gorgeous, translucent green from collards and cilan- tro. This hearty fare’s robust, so take heed if you wish to explore further. The Mexilhao ($16) offers a great mound of mussels (PEI or Bangs Island) steamed in roasted garlic, tomatoes, and linguica. End- less quantities of sliced baguettes arrive for dipping into the benevolent broth. Bons sonHos Beer includes Banded, Oxbow, Rising Tide, Maine Beer Company, Bunker, and North- coast. From an exclusively Portuguese wine list, Lomba recommends Locations #4 ($13/42). My friend finds her white— the Esporao, 2016 ($8/26). It’s particularly suited to her entree, the Piri Piri Chicken ($21). The quarter chicken satisfies–crispy skin, moist throughout. The smoky pepper rub punches with the right amount of heat, tempered by the creamy Faro. Dark green, locally-raised kale provides the finishing touch. My Garlic Nailed Steak ($26) is no less successful, cooked exactly to my “rare but not walking off my plate” request. Car- amelized onions, tasty “smashed” pota- toes (roasted red potatoes sprinkled with Romano cheese), and crispy kale complete the experience. No coward souls are we, so don’t hesitate to order dessert. How can one say no to the Pastel De Nata ($6), a delightful egg custard tart? The Chocolate Salami ($6) is a celebra- tion of chocolate, dried cranberries, short- bread cookies, pistachios, and Cointreau. A resounding “yes” to all, and we leave resolv- ing to return very soon. ■ No oward oul, ront t, ath.Tues.-Thurs., - 0p.m. ri. - p.m., un. - p.m.3 - .ncsbath.com. By diane H dson