EvenJillianandMalcolmBedell,bloggersandownersof Rockland-based ’Wich,Pleasesandwichtruck,can’tresisttheallureof “old-schoolrecipes.”Marvelatthe Mainelobster-stuffedChateaubriandrecipeontheirblog(fromaway.com).Wedoubtthey’llbemakingthisdishinthebackof afoodtruckanytimesoon… M ay 2 0 1 7 6 7 Hungry Eye malcolm bedell - fromaway.com Back On The Menu What’s old is new again. The fundamental things apply. By Claire Z. Cramer R emember when restaurants were special?” asks Andrew Knowl- ton, editor of Bon Appetit, in the April issue. We sure do. Knowlton, a noto- rious trend-hound, now pines for the days when the maître d’ would pull out his chair in the sort of restaurant where patrons wore “something other than jeans.” But maybe it’s not about the white table- cloths–maybe it’s about the vibe, the ambi- ence, and best of all, the food. In Portland, it’s easy to find restaurants that are special in that way you remember, but also new and exciting. FONDUE & OYSTERS “Courtney’s food is full of intuition,” says Birch Shambaugh, co-owner with his wife Fayth Preyer, of Woodford Food & Beverage at Portland’s ever-bustling Woodford’s Corner. At lively F&B, site of the original mid- 20th-century Valle’s Steak House, chef Courtney Loreg takes us back by refash- ioning dishes we remember into something better. Croque Monsieur (and Madame), the Sunday night plat du jour, is “comfort epito-