N o v e m b e r 2 0 1 7 6 9 RestauRant Review meaghaN maurice ranged on wafer-thin slices of watermel- on radish. These are set over silken roast- ed winter squash and crumbs of ripe blue cheese. An orange-accented sauce of pu- reed squash and walnut milk is swooshed prettily alongside. Tiny nests of frisée gar- nish this delicious creation. Chef Nicholas Verdisco comes to Bol- ster, Snow & Co. (named for Mellen Bol- ster’s local dry goods empire) from the Inn at Pound Ridge by Jean-Georges Vong- erichten. He knows how to layer up a suc- cession of flavors without blurring them. You’ll spot this from the first whisper of togarashi (Japanese chili powder perfumed with ginger, herbs, and spices) on your parsnip chips. W e’re even more wowed by the day’s catch—sea bass on our visit—served as a whole, pan- seared filet in a sauce containing earthy chanterelles, pickled raisins, and subtle cur- ry oil ($30). The fish is tender and sweet, and the skin crackles. Accompanying flo- rets of cauliflower will convert even the staunchest non-believer. Wide ribbons of house-made pappardelle sing in combination with luxurious Creamy Corn Boar ($27), an unctuous, imagi- native sauce rich with creamed fresh corn and ground boar meat. It’s accented brightly with a scattering of black garlic and snipped chives. Apple Tart ($11) for dessert is a sassy coda to the rich meal, with tart, thin, glazed slices of fruit set on a divinely buttery, crumbly almond crust. A sweet smear of apple butter and tiny cubes of pickled apple offer glorious contrasts. Bolster, Snow & Co. captures the spe- cial-occasion “getaway” magic of a hotel restaurant, with beautifully set tableware, delicate stemware, and professional service. A delicious new chapter has opened in the history of this gracious landmark. n Bolster,Snow&Co.,747CongressSt.,Portland. DinnerMon.-Thurs.5–9p.m.;Fri.&Sat.till10:30; Sun.till8:30.772-7496.