O c t o b e r 2 0 1 7 6 7 erin little Restaurant Review deserves a permanent slot on the menu. And since every neighborhood place has to have a signature burger, we try the LG Burger with JoJos ($12), a classic grilled patty served up on a tender potato bun that tastes exactly like the good old days. Amer- ican cheese, grilled onions, spicy mayo, and heavenly shredded iceberg lettuce are in- fused with flavorful grilled-burger juices. JoJos turn out to be hand-cut fries, dain- tier than steak fries but heftier than skin- ny frites. L ittle Giant’s friendly and skilled staff appears to approach service as a shared mission. Their names are even listed in the back of the bar menu. Andrew Volk steps away from the host station to offer tastes of the Chateau du Trignan Roussanne and hearty Pecchi- nino Dolcetto (each $11 per glass) for our approval before pouring us a glass of each to enjoy with the entrees. Next time, we’ll try the Mushroom Ag- nolotti ($18) or the seared Rainbow Trout ($22). We also vow to try the whole smoked chick- en with potato sal- ad, greens, and corn- bread ($35, intended for three or more diners), which we spot on a huge wooden board heading into the dining room, an enchant- ing barbecue aroma trailing in its wake. The dessert menu makes an of- fer we can’t refuse: Sweet Corn Ice Cream ($9), served with house-made brioche toast points, a thick sauce of wild blueberries, and a garnish of hot, salted pop- corn. It’s a feast for the senses and ab- solutely not to be missed. As with the ter- rific biscuits, the dessert highlights the tal- ents of pastry chef Darcy Poor. We’d bet her double chocolate cake with Maine raspberry jam is also divine. n LittleGiant,211DanforthSt.,Portland. Dinner:3-11p.m.daily,747-5045.