Everyday Sommelier W i n t e r g u i d e 2 0 1 8 6 9 from top left: neirfy/adobestock; adobe stock The Winter Warmer Sweet and strong, port wine is your antidote to the colder months. By Ralph Hersom W ith the chilly nights upon us, what could be better than curling up with a good book and a glass of port? A trip to the Baha- mas? OK, fine. I’ve selected four ports that should help you weather whatever storm Mother Nature sends your way this win- ter season. Port is a fortified wine, ranging in style from white, rose, tawny, and red–known as “ruby” port. We’ll focus on the latter two varieties, which are most commonly en- joyed at the end of a meal for their sweet- ness. True to the name, ruby ports are deep red in color, with flavors of berries and chocolate. Generally, an open bottle will stay fresh for about two weeks. Tawny ports are lighter in color and tend to be sweet- er than ruby ports, with notes of nuts and caramel. A bottle of tawny port will stay fresh for about a month after opening. Most ports you see in the marketplace vary in price from $15 to several hundred dollars and the best selection will be found in fine wine shops–not at your local grocer. Real port wine can only come from the grapes of the Douro Region in Portugal. Al- though up to 30 different varieties can be used, the grapes consid- ered the best are Touriga Nacio- nal, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz (a.k.a. Tempranillo), Tinta Barro- ca, and Tinta Cao, each imparting nuanced characteristics to the final blend. Most average 20-percent al- cohol by volume versus table wines (12-14 percent), so sip responsibly! Founded in 1880, the house of Ra- mos Pinto uses grapes exclusively from its own estate in the making of each port vintage. The Collector Reserva ruby port ($18) carries ripe aro- mas of dried plums, figs, black- berries, and a hint of spice that make this bottle the perfect accompaniment to dark chocolate or Stilton Cheese. Another winner from Ramos Pinto comes in the form of the house’s 20-year- old Tawny Port ($68). This is, in my opin- ion, one of the best bottles on the mar- ket for quality and price point in any style and the benchmark for 20-year tawny ports. Made from grapes from one of the oldest vine- yards in the Douro–the Quinta do Bom Retiro, with flavors of dates, dried figs, and Brazil nuts–this port conjures an amazing complexity of flavors on the palate. The finish lin- gers for over 30 seconds. I don’t recommend pairing this with any des- sert. Instead, simply sip it on its own–it’s that singular! Founded in 1692, Taylor Fladgate’s 10-year-old Tawny Port ($30) is, as the name suggests, aged in wood for a mini- mum of 10 years. It should be the reference point for all ports of this age and type, as it boasts wonderful aromas of nuts, caramel, and hints of oak. This port pairs perfectly with a fig tart or bread pudding. The firm of Croft Port, dating to 1588, is one of the world’s great producers of vintage port. I suggest the 2011 vintage ($82). The distinctive style derives from the soils of the famous Quinta da Roêda estate, whose ripe and powerfully fruity wines are the heart of the Croft Vintage blend. I recommend de- canting this wine for one hour and pairing with a piece of Stilton Cheese, which should be served at room temperature. n RalphHersomisasommelierandownerofRRHCellarsWine Consultancy.HewasformerlytheCellarmasteratWindowsOn TheWorldandWineDirectorofLeCirque2000inNYC. Delicioso! Port wine and Pasteis de Nata custard tarts are famed Portuguese indulgences.