A-1 Diner reviewed by Diane Hudson Nov 2003 Gardiner, Maineπs, A-1 Diner sits astride a bridge spanning Cobbosseecontee Stream just above its convergence with the Kennebec River. Cars on Route 201 swish behind you as you enter the door and travel 57 years into the past. Inside, it is 1946: aluminum and wood, the booths, and the Art Deco optimism of a world streamlined for efficiency. The menu of this original Worcester dining car stays in character as well. At first blush, there seem to be no surprises ≠ chicken salad, corned beef hash, grilled cheese, eight kinds of burgers, meatloaf, fried haddock, and the usual sides: baked beans, mashed or fries, cole slaw, and onion rings. But look again. Startlingly unexpected international specials are pulling hoards of travelers off nearby Interstate 95 onto what used to be the main Portland-to-Augusta road. Take Oaxacan potato soup ($3.50 cup), for example, and root vegetable chowder, tomato bulgar, and rattlesnake chile. We tried the Oaxacan, savoring each spoon of this slightly hot, robust treat complemented by a resoundingly good biscuit. My entrÈe, Algerian lamb shank ($11.50), came as a result of a difficult choice, given options such as Tuscan sirloin, salmon with pesto, and lamb-and-goat-cheese burger. Tender enough to be taken off the bone with a spoon, the lamb, served stew style with ample gravy and yummy mashed potatoes, was a symphony for the senses. Cardomom, saffron, curry, fennel, and garlic mingled with raisins, almonds, tomatoes, carrots, and orange zest to set off this North African treat in glorious fashion. Meanwhile my partner, disdaining romance, tucked happily into a plate of liver and onions ($8.95) with a great heap of real fried potatoes and field greens with vinaigrette. Goats Do Roam, a South African red wine ($19 bottle), added to the festivity of the evening, ending with a warm apple crisp generously laden with real whipped cream. A-1: well worth the drive, from anywhere. A-1 Diner, 3 Bridge Street, Gardiner. 582-4804