![\"JA15-Restaurant-Review\"](\"http:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/JA15-Restaurant-Review.jpg\")
<\/a>Viewed from the street, Evo seems like a small corner of Portland\u2019s Hyatt Place Hotel, but once inside, all heaven breaks loose. Gigantic glass walls circle the entire elegant, chic space, affording terrific light. We\u2019re seated in arguably one of the best people-watching perches on the peninsula.<\/p>\nThe food measures up to this attractive ambiance with appealing choices prepared before our eyes (from comfortable seating at the bar we can see the entire kitchen). The menu lists items by categories\u2013vegetarian, meats, fish, desserts\u2013rather than courses.<\/p>\n
But first, libations. We\u2019re attracted to \u201cLuna Selene\u201d (Tito\u2019s vodka, St. Germaine, concord grapes, and lime, $11), but we turn instead to a wine\u00a0 list containing many bottles from the Eastern Mediterranean. A helpful server offers tastings. Recolte 2013 La Reserve du Domaine Sainte-Eugene, a value at $22, is the complex red with the body to stand up to the intriguingly spice-laden fare.<\/p>\n
Perfectly browned and crisped veal sweetbreads ($14) are seasoned with date molasses, and garnished artichoke, radish slices, Aleppo pepper, and watercress. This is a pretty and satisfying dish.<\/p>\n
Chef de cuisine Matthew Ginn (executive chef is Brendan Hicks, also chef at Chebeague Island Inn) calls Evo\u2019s menu \u201crefreshing\u2013less butter and cream, more olive oil and sumac.\u201d Succulent saut\u00e9ed chicken livers ($10) from nearby Sumner Valley Farm are prepared with fresh pomegranate and lemon juices, olive oil, and sumac and served with bite-sized crackers inspired by a 10th-century recipe involving crushed walnuts, pomegranate, and vinegar.<\/p>\n
Expect the unexpected here. Peekytoe crab falafel ($12) is nothing like Maine crab cakes. Three fried round balls of crab, chick peas, chick pea flour, and fava beans arrive with a fabulous, garlicky sauce. \u201cLike mayo without eggs,\u201d says Ginn, \u201ctoum<\/em> is an emulsion made from garlic, water and oil.\u201d Sprinklings of cumin and coriander pull it all together.<\/p>\n Don\u2019t miss the remarkable pork shoulder shawarma ($8), marinated and slowly roasted in Evo\u2019s vertical rotisserie. Served in house-made Marook Mountain flatbread, the shaved meat\u2019s flavors are augmented by garlic and scallions.<\/p>\n Sardines ala Plancha ($14) are a joy. Whole fresh young herring from Brown Trading are boned and filleted; seared on the flat-top with roasted peppers, onion, shallots, garlic, and sherry; and served with a tantalizing charred escarole.<\/p>\n Moving to the sweets, we enjoy a fine Persian baklava ($7)\u2013crispy phyllo with pistachios and rose blossom syrup. But the stand-out for me is Quamar al Din ($10), little light turmeric cakes called sfouf<\/i> served with fresh mint and an exquisite apricot sorbet.<\/p>\n Evo is short for \u201cevolution of Mediterranean food,\u201d says manager Sarah Smith, and we\u2019re all for this sort of progress.<\/p>\n