{"id":10915,"date":"2015-08-28T12:55:15","date_gmt":"2015-08-28T16:55:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/?p=10915"},"modified":"2015-08-28T12:57:55","modified_gmt":"2015-08-28T16:57:55","slug":"terlingua","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/terlingua\/","title":{"rendered":"Terlingua"},"content":{"rendered":"

September 2015 | view this story as a .pdf<\/a><\/p>\n

Bayside BBQ<\/span><\/h2>\n

Terlingua brings lots of Latin flair to the hipster end of Washington Avenue<\/span><\/h3>\n

Review by Diane Hudson<\/p>\n

\"Restaurant-Terlingua-Sept15\"Este es el para\u00edso<\/em>,\u201d says my dining companion as we take our seats in Terlingua, a bite of fall in the evening air.<\/span><\/p>\n

Our drinks are heavenly, too\u2013dead-perfect margarita and a daiquiri ($10). A zesty mushroom empanada ($10) arrives, sporting a buttery crust and bursting with flavor. It\u2019s accompanied by a tasty fried egg and delicately dressed Winter Hill Farm lettuce. <\/span><\/p>\n

We continue with the Pork Belly Chicharron ($7 for smaller portion, $13 for large). I say go large for this fork-tender, sensationally seared strip of pork belly edged with crisp greens.<\/span><\/p>\n

Just then our bartender whispers, \u201cYou want barbecue, you\u2019d better order up quick.\u201d So we do\u2013it can and does sell out. <\/span><\/p>\n

Though not specifically a barbecue joint, (Terlingua bills itself as \u201cboutique barbecue\u201d), the house-smoked meats\u2013daily preparations listed on a board at the bar\u2013offer some mighty fine fare along those lines. Crossed off a second after we order, our St. Louis ribs appear, perfectly blackened on big bones ($14\/$21). With these tender beasts are savory sauces (spicy vinegar and sweet-and-smoky), slices of ripe watermelon, a tangy mixture of house-pickled vegetables, and grilled pita bread. <\/span><\/p>\n

We can\u2019t resist the Wagyu brisket ($21\/$28), top-notch beef justifying the \u2018boutique\u2019 moniker. <\/span><\/p>\n

Sides have a Latin flair. At Terlingua you find no corn bread, slaw, or baked beans. Instead, we thoroughly enjoy the sliced avocado and tomato with salted cucumber ($5) but could easily scarf up slow-cooked greens with pork belly ($4); grilled corn with bacon, cotija<\/i> cheese, and cilantro ($4); or roasted cauliflower with poblano and cheese ($5). <\/span><\/p>\n

A trio of sorbets completes a most delightful dinner.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Terlingua, 52 Washington Avenue, Portland. Closed Tuesday, Dinner 5-9 pm, late night snacks, 9 pm-close. 808-8502, terlingua.me<\/a><\/b><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

September 2015
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