{"id":11091,"date":"2015-10-30T12:24:15","date_gmt":"2015-10-30T16:24:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/?p=11091"},"modified":"2015-10-30T17:25:14","modified_gmt":"2015-10-30T21:25:14","slug":"union","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/union\/","title":{"rendered":"Union"},"content":{"rendered":"

November 2015 | view this story as a .pdf<\/a><\/p>\n

Re: Union<\/b><\/span><\/h2>\n

Hot off the Press! The news is delicious at Portland’s new hotel restaurant.<\/span><\/h3>\n

Review by Diane Hudson<\/p>\n

\"Nov15-Restaurant-Review\"<\/a>“Definitely different,\u201d says my companion as we sit down at Union in Portland\u2019s Press Hotel. He worked for the Maine Sunday Telegram<\/em> at this location for 27 years. <\/span><\/p>\n

The restaurant occupies an airy space on the ground floor of the former Gannett newspaper headquarters, now one of Marriott\u2019s upscale Autograph Collection hotels.<\/span><\/p>\n

We begin with the charcuterie plate ($17), a substantial offering of three locally cured meats accompanied by good grilled bread, fennel mustard, and pickled veggies. This, with a fine IPA (like Baxter\u2019s Stowaway, $5 can), could serve as a satisfying repast. We opt, however, for a wonderfully satisfying wine, Michel Picard Vouvray ($30).<\/span><\/p>\n

The chef\u2019s tasting menu ($55 for three courses, $79 for five) leaps off the page with three headliners. The first, p\u1eadt\u00e9 de foie<\/em>, is beautifully presented. Accompaniments include incredibly tasty tiny pickled mustard seeds, black truffle vinegar in little drops on the pretty black slate, and a tasty brioche crouton.<\/span><\/p>\n

Next up, native beet salad\u2013a bountiful bowl of perfectly cooked red and golden beets glowing atop a delectable dressing of local yogurt, curry oil, and ginger emulsion. This dish alone is proof the Union lives up to its self described \u201cfarm to table hotspot.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Our carnivore lust is indulged by Chef Josh Berry\u2019s smoked sirloin of beef with a nice rare middle. The whole plate works wonderfully with the smallest, tastiest baked potatoes (again, farm freshness), exquisitely browned cauliflower, red cabbage puree, and a sinfully rich blue cheese glac\u00e9.<\/span><\/p>\n

Desserts, like everything at Union, are a sight to behold and devour. The chef outdoes himself again with a gorgeous array,\u00a0 <\/span>including autumn squash pudding, cinnamon gelato, burnt sunflower butter, pumpkin puree, and whipped maple syrup.<\/span><\/p>\n

We finish by plunging into the Bee\u2019s Knees ($9), a light pistachio cake with heavenly lavender gelato, honey brown butter, honey powder, and local bee pollen.<\/span><\/p>\n

A memorable experience, on all counts. Be sure to make reservations well in advance, though the full menu is also available at the very comfortable bar seating.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Union Restaurant, 390 Congress St., Portland. Open 7am-10pm daily, Sunday brunch, 12-3, 808-8700 or thepresshotel.com <\/b><\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\r\n

<\/div>\n

Comments or questions about this story? Email us now!<\/p>\r\n

\r\n
\r\n\n
\n *<\/span> indicates required field<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
\n
\r\n
\n