{"id":11420,"date":"2016-03-31T18:56:32","date_gmt":"2016-03-31T22:56:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/?p=11420"},"modified":"2016-03-31T18:56:32","modified_gmt":"2016-03-31T22:56:32","slug":"woodford-food-beverage","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/woodford-food-beverage\/","title":{"rendered":"Woodford Food & Beverage"},"content":{"rendered":"

April 2016 | view this story as a .pdf<\/a><\/p>\n

All Good In The Woodford ‘Hood<\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n

Delicious food and a friendly neighborhood vibe transform a landmark intersection.<\/span><\/h3>\n

Review by Diane Hudson<\/p>\n

\"Restaurant-Review-APR16\"Having long been nonplussed by the mid-century-mod \u201cchalet\u201d smack dab in the middle of Woodford\u2019s Corner, we are amazed to be driving toward a beautifully lit jewel box inside which graceful figures appear to be dancing. <\/span><\/p>\n

Inside Woodford Food & Beverage<\/strong>, the magic continues. Streetlights and headlights flicker through semi-closed Venetian blinds, creating an ecstasy of colors as cars float silently by, while vinyl records spin joyfully on a turntable at the hostess station\u2013this place rocks!<\/span><\/p>\n

Roasted beet salad ($9)\u2013with the freshest tangy mixed greens and tender, juicy beets\u2013is\u00a0 <\/span>garnished with goat cheese mousse, a divinely frothy affair. It\u2019s all enhanced by the textures and tastes of pistachios and dried cherries. <\/span><\/p>\n

Although one could easily order some splendid smaller dishes to make up a meal\u2013roasted oysters (market), mussels and fries ($11), stuffed clams ($6), classic deviled eggs ($8)\u2013we go full monty. Braised Pork Shank ($21) is falling-off-the-bone wonderful, set on top of a brilliantly crafted white bean stew with luscious baby carrots, rosemary, thyme, caramelized onions, bacon, and braised greens. Plenty to takeaway home. <\/span><\/p>\n

The star of the evening, though, is the Stuffed Lobster ($24)! This classic, prepared by chef Courtney Loreg (Fore Street, Bresca, Aurora Provisions) is a charming nod to bygone Portland restaurateur Donald Valle, whose Valle\u2019s steak-and-lobster chain got its start at this very spot in 1933. But Loreg\u2019s rendition\u2013poached whole lobster accompanied by celery root puree, roasted tomatoes, toasted challah, and a stunning dollop of duchess potatoes\u2013brings a new level of sophistication. It\u2019s a dream dish, presently available only on Wednesdays as the plat du jour<\/em>.<\/span><\/p>\n

Desserts, too, are a cut above ($8). Memories are made of such things as a bowlful of creamy vanilla panna cotta sporting cranberry coulis and white-pepper shortbread cookies\u2013or a piping hot brownie topped with local Little Bee\u2019s ice cream, caramel, and praline pecans. <\/span><\/p>\n

This crossroads destination is truly a bright new gem. <\/span><\/p>\n

Woodford Food & Beverage, 660 Forest Ave., Portland. Sun, Mon, Wed. & Thurs., 5-10 p.m. ; Fri & Sat., 5-11 p.m. woodfordfb.com<\/a>, 200-8503. <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

April 2016
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