{"id":12481,"date":"2017-02-09T14:24:14","date_gmt":"2017-02-09T19:24:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/?p=12481"},"modified":"2017-03-02T09:30:31","modified_gmt":"2017-03-02T14:30:31","slug":"sichuan-kitchen","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/sichuan-kitchen\/","title":{"rendered":"Sichuan Kitchen"},"content":{"rendered":"

February\/March 2017 | view this story as a .pdf<\/a><\/p>\n

Next Stop Chengdu<\/strong><\/span><\/h3>\n

Sichuan Kitchen<\/strong> brings the heat to Congress Street.<\/span><\/h4>\n

By Diane Hudson<\/span><\/p>\n

\"FM17-Rest-Review-Sichuan\"Enticing, spicy Sichuan Kitchen<\/strong> is now pulsing on Congress Street. In this daughter-father act, Qi Shen<\/strong> (Qi meaning \u201clife\u201d or \u201cbreath\u201d in Mandarin) brought her dad, Shang Wei Shen<\/strong>, from his native Sichuan Region of southwest China to dazzle diners here. As head chef, \u201cHe speaks no English,\u201d Qi says. \u201cWe translate each order to him in Mandarin.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n

We begin with the seaweed salad<\/strong> ($7). Crystal vermicelli noodles, julienned daikon, and savory seaweed combine to create a stunning fresh salad dressed with roasted chili oil, which gives the dish a smoky heat. It\u2019s spiced, not spicy: the kick of the chili is tamed by black vinegar and a generous garnish of fresh cilantro. <\/span><\/p>\n

If the heart of Sichuan cooking beats with \u201cfour taste sensations: spicy, hot, fresh, and fragrant,\u201d according to the menu. This opener delivers on all four. Seeking robust sensuality, we enjoy an appetizer of savory Sichuan-style ribs<\/strong> ($12). Made of slow-braised, tender pork ribs smothered in a dark syrupy sauce, this pairs beautifully with the subtle, dry heat of the seaweed salad. <\/span><\/p>\n

Following tradition, we sip cups of fragrant tea from a white ceramic teapot between courses, cleansing our palates before the next round of indulgence. Shen\u2019s specially selected E-Mei Kaifengt tea<\/strong> ($5) is made from a delicate blend of floral jasmine and green loose-leaf tea shipped from China. Our draught of Peaks Fresh Cut Pilsner ($6) hasn\u2019t traveled quite as far to our table\u2013but certainly delivers on refreshment. <\/span><\/p>\n

We can\u2019t bear to leave the appetizer list, so we try a plate of Zhong dumplings<\/strong> ($7), straight from Shen\u2019s hometown of Chengdu. These tender little pockets of luscious, garlicky pork loin are topped with the signature Zhong chili-soy sauce with just the right amount of zing. We are smitten. <\/span><\/p>\n

O<\/span>ur next taste treat, served family-style, is Fish with pickled greens<\/strong> ($19)\u2013Swai fish fillets, pickled greens, chilis, and Sichuan peppercorns. Swai is a white fish similar to a catfish. Bathing in a velvety broth, the dish boasts the classic Sichuan pepper spice profile: a slow, numbing tingle of heat with a lemony flavor, unlike the hot, eye-watering slap of the traditional chili pepper. A real slow burner, this dish is the perfect antidote for a cool, windy day.<\/span><\/p>\n

Shang Wei Shen has a surprise for us: Double-Cooked Pork<\/strong> ($16). His plate of delicate pork belly shells arrives simmered and then fried in a rich bean paste punctuated with flash-fried leeks for a zippy freshness. Jumping with vibrant greens and reds, this bowl is as much a feast for the eyes as for the taste buds.<\/span><\/p>\n

Bypassing the limp, greasy fare of pseudo-Chinese takeout joints, Sichuan Kitchen delivers authentic regional cuisine thanks to Shen\u2019s exciting and accessible cooking. Quite exceptionally, flavor is not lost in translation at Sichuan Kitchen<\/span>. <\/span>n<\/span><\/p>\n

Sichuan Kitchen, 612 Congress St., Portland. Sun.-Wed., 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Thurs.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-10\u00a0 <\/span>p.m.<\/span>
\n<\/strong><\/span>536-7226, sichuankitchenportland.com<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

February\/March 2017
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