{"id":14549,"date":"2018-02-14T15:54:35","date_gmt":"2018-02-14T20:54:35","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/?p=14549"},"modified":"2018-02-15T16:20:08","modified_gmt":"2018-02-15T21:20:08","slug":"tuscan-table","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/tuscan-table\/","title":{"rendered":"Tuscan Table"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"p1\">Feb\/March 2018<\/p>\n<h3 class=\"p1\">Tuscan Terrific<\/h3>\n<h3 class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">Wonderful surprises await you at the sign of the swine. Look out for the<br \/>\ncolorful pig mural that catches your eye as you approach the Maine Mall.<\/span><\/h3>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s2\">By Claire Z. Cramer<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p3\"><span class=\"s3\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-14559 alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/FM18-Restaurant-Review.jpg\" alt=\"FM18-Restaurant-Review\" width=\"300\" height=\"217\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/FM18-Restaurant-Review.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/FM18-Restaurant-Review-200x145.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/>\u201cYou\u2019ll love this table,\u201d says the hostess as she leads the way up one of the two staircases to the second-floor balcony dining room of <strong>Tuscan Table<\/strong>. \u201cYou can see all the action.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p4\"><span class=\"s1\">Can we ever. Settling into comfy wing chairs at a table overlooking a huge, bustling universe, we\u2019re enchanted. Soaring, latticed light fixtures of delicately shaved and shaped wood hang from the distant ceiling. As choice as our table is, there doesn\u2019t appear to be a bad seat in the house.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p4\"><span class=\"s1\">We select glasses of Circa pinot grigio and Dipinti sauvignon blanc ($7.50 and $8 respectively) from the 20 Italian wines available by the glass. Drinks arrive in delicate stemware, quickly followed by bread and a dish of fruity, peppery olive oil.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p4\"><span class=\"s1\">We ponder choices while sharing an antipasto of <strong>cavolfiore<\/strong>\u2013roasted cauliflower set on leaves of romaine hearts sparked by a zingy anchovy-lemon dressing laced with Grana Padano ($9). Dainty, crisp garlic croutons bring to mind a glammed-up Caesar salad. Other antipasti include platters of <strong>salumi<\/strong> and <strong>formaggio<\/strong>, $3 to $5 per selection; <strong>polpette<\/strong> (pork meatballs in tomato<strong> agrodolce<\/strong>), $9.50; and a <strong>fritto<\/strong> of scallops, whitefish fritters, and calamari served with artichoke aioli, $11.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p4\"><span class=\"s2\">A bowl of gnocchi with fresh porcini mushrooms braised in butter with leeks, garlic, and thyme ($19) is perfect for sharing. The airy, potato-fragrant gnocchi and the intensely earthy sauce are a deeply satisfying combination. Gnocchi and all pastas here are house-made\u2013we spot spaghetti carbonara ($17) being served below us at the bar, glistening strands beautifully coiled. Other pastas include fettuccine with Bolognese ragu ($19) and lemon-buttered capellini with clams, mussels, and lobster ($23).<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p4\"><span class=\"s1\">Around Portland, gourmet pizza is pretty competitive, and our Porchetta pizza ($17) jumps right into the front of that pack. Sizzling from the glowing, wood-fired oven downstairs, it\u2019s topped with San Marzano tomato sauce, rich bits of pork belly and loin, and mozzarella. To serve, it\u2019s been dressed with a little green storm of baby arugula and a few judicious drops of pomegranate balsamic vinegar. Everything comes together\u2013crisp, chewy crust, divine porkiness, gooey cheese, and piquant garnishes. There\u2019s also a classic Margherita pizza that can be embellished with salami, prosciutto, or meatballs ($12 to $16). Fancier pies include the Bianco pie with roasted garlic, mozzarella, and fried sage ($13). Executive chef Lee Skawinski is the secret weapon here. He made Portland\u2019s <strong>Cinque Terre<\/strong> a haute-Italian runaway success back in the early 2000s. Skawinski and sous-chef Charles White make expert use of the restaurant\u2019s two rustic wood ovens.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p4\"><span class=\"s3\">The lunch and dinner menus are very similar (including in price), though the wood-grilled burger, the fried haddock sandwich, or your pick from a selection of paninis are unique to the lunch menu ($11 to $14). The dinner menu adds wood-grilled salmon, haddock, or scallops, along with old favorites like chicken parmigiana ($19 to $29). Steak Fiorentina for two with Tuscan white beans and anchovy-lemon dressed salad is $79.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p4\">A pair of pretty little gelato-filled profiteroles finishes our feast\u2013one pistachio and the other salted caramel, topped with the delicious house chocolate sauce ($6.50). We sip cappuccino ($5) as we enjoy the people-watching.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p4\"><span class=\"s1\">The location adjacent to the Maine Mall notwithstanding, you\u2019ll never mistake this for a mall or chain restaurant. (It does have two popular sister-establishments, the Tuscan Bistro in Freeport and Royal River Grill House in Yarmouth.) Most diners appear to be on dates or enjoying multi-generational, multi-coursed family meals. Everyone appears to have caught the celebratory vibe. <\/span><span class=\"s4\">n<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s1\"> Tuscan Table, serving lunch and dinner daily 11 a.m. &#8211; 9 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., &amp; until 10 p.m. Fri. &amp; Sat. 390 Gorham Rd., South Portland; 536-0240; <a href=\"http:\/\/tuscantablemaine.com\">tuscantablemaine.com<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>February\/March 2018<br \/>\nWonderful surprises await you at the sign of the swine. Look out for the colorful pig mural that catches your eye as you approach the Maine Mall.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":14560,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[199,191,158,198,183,182,127,160,154,197],"class_list":["post-14549","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-reviews","tag-chefs","tag-februarymarch-2018","tag-food","tag-food-porn","tag-foodie-news","tag-foodies","tag-maine","tag-portland-maine","tag-restaurant-review","tag-tuscany"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14549","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=14549"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14549\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":14561,"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14549\/revisions\/14561"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/14560"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=14549"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=14549"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=14549"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}