{"id":15119,"date":"2018-07-16T18:25:52","date_gmt":"2018-07-16T22:25:52","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/?p=15119"},"modified":"2018-07-16T18:30:15","modified_gmt":"2018-07-16T22:30:15","slug":"two-for-the-show","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/two-for-the-show\/","title":{"rendered":"Joshua’s"},"content":{"rendered":"

July\/August 2018 | view this story as a .pdf
\n<\/a><\/p>\n

Two for the Show
\nIt\u2019s a farm-to-table-to-theater affair at Joshua\u2019s in Wells.<\/span><\/h3>\n

By Colin W. Sargent<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"JA-18-Restaurant-Joshua\"W<\/em><\/strong><\/span>e\u2019re driving down Route 1 in the balmy afterglow. It\u2019s one of those precious evenings in Maine when the idea of staying in is just not on the table. We have tickets for an 8 p.m. performance at Hackmatack Playhouse in Berwick, but we\u2019re in Wells, on the coast. Earlier in the day, we\u2019d decided to check out Joshua\u2019s<\/strong>\u2013we\u2019d heard good things about this Revolutionary War-era tavern that\u2019s getting raves for its farm-to-table fare. But when we called for reservations, we got a message: they\u2019d call us back within 24 hours.<\/span><\/p>\n

Yikes. Who has 24 hours? So we just head down Route 1, figuring we\u2019ll find something along the way, when there it is, perfectly located at 1637 Post Road, right before the turnoff to Route 9 and Berwick. This 1774 Colonial landmark was purchased in 2004 for $372,000, according to the town of Wells, and after extensive renovations was transformed into what is now Joshua\u2019s. Barbara Mather, one of the owners, says the name comes from her son, Joshua Mather, who is the chef and part owner and \u201cwhy we\u2019re here.\u201d Right away we can see Joshua\u2019s is in ascension, because, early on a Wednesday and early in the season, the parking lot is full.<\/span><\/p>\n

While they have no openings until 7:30 (that isn\u2019t going to work), the bar is open with a full menu and a birds-eye maple counter. We have front-row seats with views of the drinks getting launched by a very efficient bartender, who chats as she works. It\u2019s impossible not to order the delicious fresh Strawberry Cosmo, where she scoops the luscious berries from a bowl and muddles them right in front of us. No pre-mix here. The pale rose elixir lights up the room. Looking around, we see this drink is a big hit.<\/span><\/p>\n

After enjoying the house-made Anadama Bread (molasses, fruit, and nuts) and focaccia, we choose Peekytoe Crab Cakes and the Arugula Salad as starters. The crab cakes are toothsome, with a crunchy crust and dill aioli, but the salad, garnished with bacon, pickled onions, and shaved Parmesan dressed with a truffle-oil vinaigrette, is even better. \u201cThe arugula is grown on our farm off Bald Hill Road,\u201d the bartender tells us. \u201cJust eight miles up the road.\u201d It\u2019s a perfect balance of salty, sweet, acid, and pungence, the arugula incredibly fresh.<\/span><\/p>\n

We split a bottle of Argyle pinot noir from Oregon\u2019s Willamette Valley, a yummy match for our generous five-ribbed Rack of Lamb au jus, with mustard crust and mushroom stuffing; fiddleheads; and truffled mashed potatoes. We turn to our perfectly cooked Swordfish (with fiddleheads, broccoli, asparagus, and mashed potatoes) and wonder which dish is better, deciding to return for another shot of the Rack of Lamb after the first chill of fall. The cost for drinks, wine, two appetizers, and two entrees is $150. We take our time enjoying our meal, because all we have to do is turn right on Route 9, relax, and drive. What about dessert? We\u2019ll get to that.<\/span><\/p>\n

W<\/span>e reach Hackmatack Playhouse<\/strong> at twilight and find our seats. Tonight, it\u2019s Lend Me A Tenor<\/em>. Between the acts, they serve fresh Strawberry Shortcake as part of a longtime mystical tradition. \u201cThe strawberries were picked this morning,\u201d we\u2019re told. They\u2019re served on flaky biscuits with a double dollop of whipped cream. Under the stars.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Joshua\u2019s, 1637 Post Rd., Wells. Open 7 days, 5 – 10 p.m. 646-3355.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

July\/August 2018
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