{"id":15295,"date":"2018-09-28T09:46:02","date_gmt":"2018-09-28T13:46:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/?p=15295"},"modified":"2018-09-28T09:46:02","modified_gmt":"2018-09-28T13:46:02","slug":"ports-of-italy-3","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/ports-of-italy-3\/","title":{"rendered":"Ports of Italy"},"content":{"rendered":"

An Italian Dream<\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n

Let the rich flavors of this cucina italiana<\/em> enchant you. <\/span><\/h3>\n

By Colin W. Sargent<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"OCT18-Restaurant\"L<\/span>et\u2019s start with an insider tip. The best vantage point in Ports of Italy<\/strong> is from Table 57. Try not to enjoy yourself as you settle into the extreme back corner booth, encircled by the Kennebunk River. From this perch on the banquette, you can view the swirl of activity in the restaurant and everyone approaching you. At the same time, you\u2019re close enough to enjoy the dancing flames from the gas stove. Just as future President John F. Kennedy picked Table 40 at the Parker House in Boston the night he proposed to Jackie, so would he choose Table 57 for romance here.<\/span><\/p>\n

The Prez wouldn\u2019t mind the valet parking, either, which is free with a tip. No circling of the block. You own this town.<\/span><\/p>\n

To launch the evening, we start with a fun Sicilian Zest cocktail (Fabrizia blood orange, lime, tequila, and \u201ca splash of soda,\u201d $12) and a glass of Super Tuscan Monte Antico\u2013earthy, spicy, and famous for its \u201cdry finish\u201d ($9). The salt around the rim of the Sicilian Zest glass counterpoints its sweetness. The Monte Antico is so yummy we order more to sip through dinner.<\/span><\/p>\n

The Caesar Salad ($14) is sensuous, deep, and chewy with fresh-baked focaccia bread croutons and heavenly parmesan. The Burrata ($15) is a chamber-music collaboration of \u201csoft-center artisanal mozzarella cheese, heirloom tomatoes, basil, and extra virgin olive oil.\u201d The tomatoes are perfect, the cheese fluffy as clouds. These two salads are so vivid they induce a kind of craziness; viz. we start talking about a timeshare in Naples, Italy, or buying a studio apartment with views of Vesuvius. Looking across at the other diners, we sense that many more here are \u2018traveling\u2019 as they dine. It\u2019s quite the bistro that transports you this far.<\/span><\/p>\n

Our entrees are the Pesce Spada ($33)\u2014terrific fresh swordfish with spinach, tomatoes, artichokes, and salsa verde\u2014and Pollo alla Diavola, the real surprise and a guilty pleasure. This grilled, spatchcocked chicken under a brick is so fantastic\u2013crispy on the outside, tender and juicy on the inside, marinated in citrus, succulent with Calabrese chili-aioli, and served with crispy potatoes that are fluffy on the inside\u2014that we pass it back and forth, singing its praises. Nota bene<\/em>: the Contorni of \u201cAsparagi Parmigiana\u201d ($7) with \u201cbutter and parmesan cheese,\u201d proves a perfect diversion.<\/span><\/p>\n

Two cappuccinos and a drive under the stars along the curving beaches complete a memorable evening.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Ports of Italy, open Mon. through Thurs. from 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m, Fri.\u00a0 <\/span>through Sat. 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m., Sun. from 10:30 a.m.-3:00 p.m., 5:00 p.m.-9:00 p.m. 4 Western Ave., Kennebunk, 204-0365.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

October 2018
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