{"id":15441,"date":"2018-10-25T18:28:25","date_gmt":"2018-10-25T22:28:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/?p=15441"},"modified":"2018-10-25T18:28:25","modified_gmt":"2018-10-25T22:28:25","slug":"east-ender","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/east-ender\/","title":{"rendered":"East Ender"},"content":{"rendered":"

November 2018 | view this story as a .pdf<\/a><\/p>\n

\u201cStingers. And keep them coming.\u201d<\/span><\/h3>\n

The East Ender <\/strong>channels the holidays and the past.<\/span><\/h3>\n

By Diane Hudson<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"NOV18-Restaurant\"I<\/span>t was a classic cocktail, the Stinger, a staple in Cary Grant movies, that drew us to the East Ender<\/strong>. Having hunted it down for weeks, disappointed time and time again, my friend quite accidentally spotted it here. He folds his hands. \u201cIt\u2019s listed with the digestifs and desserts.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n

Arriving for happy hour, (Monday-Saturday, 3:30-5:30 p.m.), we figure why not test the \u201cBees Knees,\u201d ($6) too, before the Stinger? Go with the theme, you know? A brilliant elixir of Beefeater, honey, and lemon, it arrives glowing in a gorgeous crystal goblet reminiscent of my friend\u2019s grandparents\u2019 time we\u2019re treasuring. Bargain-priced snacks beckon, and we inhale the smoked hake dip on buttery club crackers ($5). Very much a comfort food\u2014so familiar yet singular in its smokiness\u2014and clearly heightened by another happy hour libation: a glass of 2016 Ruttenstock Gruner Veltliner, Austria (a steal at $4). <\/span><\/p>\n

We order the p\u00e2t\u00e9-like Chicken Leg Rillette ($7), served on lightly toasted Pain de Mie<\/em> (a French pullman bread loaf featuring very little crust). The rich meat, graced with savory seasonings and a light-handed touch of house mustard with a very good pickle (neither sweet nor sour), enhances our bread. Not a crumb remains on our plates.<\/p>\n

Delicate and perfectly sized, Bangs Island Mussels ($14) prepared with a fine balance of coconut milk, ginger, lemongrass, and lime are clean and fun to share! The rest of the pullman loaf makes for the perfect dipping instrument. <\/span><\/p>\n

Shifting gears, we devour the Crunchy Asian Slaw ($10) with ginger chili soy dressing, fried wontons, and roasted peanuts. The soothing dish provides a textured treat before we sail into the Smoked Hake Chowder, a major bargain at $9. We agree: \u201cWe\u2019d never make this at home.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n

At once friendly and familiar, the chowder hints to us that we\u2019re tasting the holidays. And that feeling extends to, of all things, the House Smoked Burger ($15)\u2014in a class of its own. I\u2019d rather have it than most any steak I\u2019ve had recently. It wasn\u2019t because we added succulent North Spore mushrooms (+$3). The secrets of it are many, but one they tout is the \u201ccold-smoked\u201d meat process. The burger stays together with a firm yet tender texture within a tasty and manageable schmaltz bun. The melted local Jack cheese is beautifully integrated throughout. The Thrice Cooked Fries sport just the right crispiness on the outside, giving way to a soft, hot middle. Our wines-by-the-glass are outstanding: a 2015 Storypoint Cabernet Sauvignon ($9) and 2015 Castello D\u2019Alba Douro ($8).<\/p>\n

For a sweet finish, we share the Sableuse ($9) with fresh, wild Maine blueberries and a vanilla bean cremeux! But wait! We\u2019re forgetting the Stinger ($11). Dating to the 1890s, this classic appears gracefully in another crystal glass. Lovingly prepared with Camus VS Elegance Cognac and a housemade cr\u00e8me de menthe, it\u2019s a knockout and well worth coming for on its own. Except, who\u2019d want to miss this meal? <\/span><\/p>\n

East Ender, 47 Middle Street, Portland. Mon.11 a.m.-10 p.m., Tues.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m.-5 p.m. 879-7669, eastenderportland.com.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

November 2018
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