{"id":198,"date":"2008-09-01T13:26:22","date_gmt":"2008-09-01T20:26:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/?p=198"},"modified":"2021-10-07T13:15:23","modified_gmt":"2021-10-07T17:15:23","slug":"emilitsa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/emilitsa\/","title":{"rendered":"Emilitsa"},"content":{"rendered":"

Reviewed by Diane Hudson Sept 2008<\/p>\n

\"emilista1\"Emilitsa is not simply \u2018the new Greek restaurant in Portland.\u2019 It is the most exciting new dining establishment of any kind here, and it happens to be Greek.<\/p>\n

Sleek, urban, and altogether warm, Emilitsa\u2013named for owner John Regas\u2019s mother, Emily\u2013sports a magnificent white marble bar, private nook in the back with a glowing black marble table, floor-to-ceiling wine rack, gorgeous exposed brick walls, and handsome lighting.<\/p>\n

Admiring the atmosphere, we quickly ordered the poikilia trio appetizer. For $11, we gorged on a selection of three of Greece\u2019s best dipping sauces: a terrific tzatziki, a cucumber-garlic-yogurt dip made on the premises with thick, creamy Greek yogurt; taramasalata, a robust and lemony pur\u00e9ed red caviar; and an unbelievably magnificent melitzanosalata, a pur\u00e9e of char-grilled eggplant, tomato, herbs, and olive oil. An ample supply of grilled pita accompanies these delights.<\/p>\n

\"emilista2\"The wine list, entirely Greek, includes such standards as Boutari Retsina ($24\/$6) and Cambas Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay ($28\/$7). Add to that two dozen other selections, all in the $24-to-$50 range, and you have something unique for Maine.
\nAs for the entr\u00e9es, our oven-roasted whole young poussin stuffed with a lemony spinach rice pilaf and served with shiitake mushrooms ($25) was practically exploding with flavors. The herb topping was like none we have tasted. Why so extraordinary? John Regas\u2013whose brother, Deno, is the chef here\u2013explains that the herbs are imported directly from the Greek countryside.<\/p>\n

Similar herbs infused my marinated free-range lamb chops\u2013a substantial three\u2013and helped contribute to a meal fit for the gods. This is the way lamb should be. The accompaniments were equally good: oven-roasted lemon potatoes\u2013crisp on the outside, flavorful inside\u2013together with grilled asparagus and sweet cherry tomatoes.
\nThe desserts ($7) were a mouth-watering range: Latho\u2019tourta, Greek semolina-olive oil cake with fresh orange slices and fresh lime chantilly; mouzzo, rich chocolate mousse laced with Sans Rival ouzo; baklava; and a Greek yogurt panna cotta topped with Greek mountain honey, glazed fresh apricots, and a sweet assyrtiko wine reduction.<\/p>\n

After-dinner wines include Samos Anthemis ($50 for a half bottle), the dark sweet wine of Samos that Lord Byron praised, and the ubiquitous mavrodaphne ($20\/$5).
\nEmilitsa is not a taverna serving up the great, everyday fare for which Greece is famous. This is high-end, and romantic. n<\/p>\n

Emilitsa, 547 Congress Street, Portland, 221-0245. Monday-Thursday, 5-9 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 5-10 p.m.; closed Sunday.<\/p>\n

\"Bookmark<\/a>