{"id":215,"date":"2008-02-01T11:21:33","date_gmt":"2008-02-01T18:21:33","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/?p=215"},"modified":"2010-02-19T11:50:25","modified_gmt":"2010-02-19T18:50:25","slug":"the-frog-turtle","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/the-frog-turtle\/","title":{"rendered":"The Frog & Turtle"},"content":{"rendered":"

Reviewed by Diane Hudson Feb\/Mar 2008<\/p>\n

\"frog4\"Chef James Tranchemontagne of Uffa! fame revels in a neighborhood dining scene, so, when he moved to Westbrook, he packed up his popular Portland restaurant and took it with him.<\/p>\n

Transforming Chicky\u2019s Fine Diner nightclub on Bridge Street, Tranchemontagne has named his new enterprise the \u201cFrog and Turtle\u201d\u2212a marriage of liveliness and leisure\u2212and billed it as a \u201cgastro pub.\u201d<\/p>\n

During our recent stop, the joint is jumping. Recent live music performers here, on Fridays from 9 to 11 p.m., include Jenny Woodman, Rachel Griffin, and Adam Waxman. Tonight, Mitch Alden (from \u201cNow is Now\u201d) is onstage with his drummer, Neil Carroll.<\/p>\n

First to reach our table is a truly magnificent p\u00e2t\u00e9 plate, with homemade pickles, sweet marinated onions, hot mustard, and tasty toast points ($7). Tranchemontagne\u2019s p\u00e2t\u00e9 is made with pork, chicken liver, chicken, and a little bacon. It is saut\u00e9ed in duck fat with onions, garlic, and spices. After it\u2019s cooled, he blends it with more butter and duck fat. \u201cThe pickles are a variation from my mother\u2019s recipe,\u201d he says. He strips down the spices to promote and simplify the sweet\/sour taste. \u201cThis helps the mouth taste the cheese better.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"frog1\"Next, we dip into full-flavored Red Bliss \u201cPotato Corn Bacon Soup ($7),\u201d robust and unforgettable with Old Smoke House bacon. From our first spoonful it\u2019s obvious that soups are going to be celebrities here. The menu also features chicken vegetable ($7) and inviting homemade seafood chowder ($9).<\/p>\n

For entre\u00e9s, I enjoy a perfectly seared duck breast ($17) with mashed potatoes and a rich very berry blackberry merlot reduction that is close-your-eyes wonderful.<\/p>\n

My partner devours a pleasing portion of classic fish and chips ($17). The crispy, non-greasy coating lends sizzle and snap to the fish, which arrives in such generous proportions that the dish overflows. The inclusion of shrimp in this traditional dish tickles us\u2013their texture is perfect for dipping into Tranchemontagne\u2019s specialty sauce while we drink in the music.<\/p>\n

Our dessert is a delicious finale to the evening: an assorted cheese plate, featuring Camembert from Silver Moon Creamery, a smooth goat cheese from Heart Song Farm, and Berkshire blue cheese, all served with apples, Gardiner\u2019s Honey of Maine, a balsamico (vinaigrette), nuts, and toast points.
\nOh yes, as this is a pub, there are lots of creative cocktails as well as good wines and beers to be enjoyed. Foxbrook Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, at $5 per elegant glass, pairs with our dinners nicely. Or try \u201cThe Swamp\u201d if you dare.<\/p>\n

The Frog and Turtle, 3 Bridge Street, Westbrook, 591-4185. Open Tues. to Sun., 4 to 9, and Sun. brunch, 9 to 1 p.m. www.thefrogandturtle.com<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Bookmark<\/a>