Review by Diane Hudson<\/span><\/p>\n Chef\/owner Jeff Buerhaus and his wife and business partner, Cheryl, raise the curtain perfectly. Soft amber lighting and an expansive, sleek dining room with tall windows provide depth and understatement to the metrosensual decor. Now mixologist Steven Lovenguth\u2019s imagination lights the footlights with eyepoppers like Skyline (Eagle Rare bourbon, Luxardo maraschino, Vya sweet vermouth, cherries, $9) and Nutty Scotsman (Dewar\u2019s, Frangelico, crushed hazelnuts, $9) while we tack into a bottle of Rock Rabbit Shiraz ($27)<\/span>.<\/span><\/p>\n Crusty, spongy sourdough bread, baked in-house, whets our appetite for the all-the-way-to-thrilling creamy wild oyster stew ($8) with boar bacon, sweet potato, and saffron. Have you ever tasted something so good you close your eyes to savor it?<\/span><\/p>\n Up next, an Asian twist on the popular 10th-century Sicilian treat, arancini ($5). These golden balls of crumb-crusted, deep-fried rice take a surprising turn, with pronounced flavors of scallion and ginger. <\/span><\/p>\n In a devious gesture, I offer my partner (contentedly making a large dent in his gnocchi) a teasing taste of my filet mignon ($24) smothered in a pool of gloriously pungent English Stilton fondue. Purple Peruvian ch\u00e8vre mash and king oyster mushrooms, both in a rich veal demi-glace, play pitch-perfect supporting roles. <\/span><\/p>\n Dessert here is a dramatic closing act. Starry encores include blueberry Guinness cheesecake ($7), chocolate souffl\u00e9 tourte with br\u00fbl\u00e9ed bananas and peanut butter gelato ($9), and raspberry chocolate bundt cake with champagne sorbet and pistachio cigarillo ($8).<\/span><\/p>\n You won\u2019t just love this grown-and-sexy Walter\u2019s. Consider this a standing ovation.<\/span><\/p>\n <\/span><\/p>\n WALTER\u2019S, 2 Portland Square, Portland<\/strong><\/span>![\"walters_8\"](\"http:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/walters_8.jpg\" "\\"walters_8\\"")
I<\/span>t\u2019s as snappy and spare as a David Mamet play, the playbill\u2019s the talk of the town, and the parking\u2019s fabulous. As you join the crowd walking in, the anticipation builds\u2013now that Walter\u2019s has completed a celebrated relocation to 2 Portland Square, will food still take the leading role on this new stage?<\/p>\n![\"walters_20100104_0006611\"](\"http:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/walters_20100104_0006611.jpg\" "\\"walters_20100104_0006611\\"")
We swing back to the Mediterranean with a flawless Milano linguine ($14\/21), tossed in tangy lemon butter with tender shrimp, spinach, artichokes, tear-drop tomatoes, feta, olives, and capers. The perfectly seared gnocchi fungi ($9\/19) is also an audience-pleaser, with an earthy cream sauce jumping with chanterelles, pine nuts, and fresh parsley.<\/span><\/p>\n
\n<\/strong><\/span>Lunch M-Sa 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Dinner daily 5-9 p.m., weekends to 9:30 p.m.; Bar menu Su 5-10 p.m., <\/strong><\/span>M-Sa 2:30-11 p.m., F-Sa to midnight<\/strong><\/span>
\n<\/strong><\/span>871-9258, waltersportland.com<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n
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