{"id":632,"date":"2007-06-01T11:32:32","date_gmt":"2007-06-01T18:32:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/?p=632"},"modified":"2010-03-23T10:50:24","modified_gmt":"2010-03-23T17:50:24","slug":"walters","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/walters\/","title":{"rendered":"Walters"},"content":{"rendered":"

reviewed by Diane Hudson SummerGuide 2007<\/p>\n

A transformed Walter\u2019s wows tourists and Old Port denizens.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"diningguide\"Sometimes you forget to visit the restaurants you walk by almost daily. They seem so invisible, or something that \u201cothers\u201d (like tourists) frequent. And then someone local surprises with a quip like, \u201cHey, have you tried the new Walter\u2019s lately?\u201d You blink, \u201cUh, no\u2026why?\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cBecause it\u2019s good, very good.\u201d<\/p>\n

Walter\u2019s, redecorated and energetic in the heart of the Old Port at 15 Exchange Street, does it right, from start to finish.<\/p>\n

Specialty drinks beckon along with an amazing wine list\u2013over 20 wines are available by the glass. A large assortment of beers and ales includes Geary\u2019s, Shipyard, Gritty\u2019s, Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA, Duvel Belgian Golden Ale, and a Seasonal Select.<\/p>\n

From more than 50 red wines on the list, we chose Thorn-Clark Milton Park Shiraz Barossa Valley from Australia ($22): a fantastic find.<\/p>\n

Exquisite olive oil in a fine little vial ac\u2013companies sourdough bread, perfect for dipping. Is the bread from Standard Bakery, we ask? \u201cNo, but our baker here used to work at Standard.\u201d<\/p>\n

Our starter of pan-roasted Bangs Island rope mussels with tasso (smoked ham with a spicy, peppery rind), white beans, and escarole in a fragrant saffron coriander broth was an instant hit\u2013and an exceptional value at $9\u2013with the fine bread sopping up subtly seasoned juices.<\/p>\n

Appealing appetizers abound, including Thai lettuce wraps, chilled spicy Thai chicken with basil, kaffir lime, chilis, peanuts, and Bibb lettuce for wrapping ($8), Wild Game Sausage Skewers ($9), crispy Asian raviolis stuffed with lemon grass chicken in a sherry sweet chili butter sauce ($8), and Maine Peekytoe Crab Cakes ($9).<\/p>\n

My rack of lamb ($25) with Peruvian Purple mashed potatoes, sugar snap peas, baby carrots, and natural au jus red wine pan sauce was as good as it gets. Decorating the dish were lovely, thin, tasty strands of something we could not guess: a flavor we\u2019ve never encountered. \u201cPopcorn sprouts,\u201d announced our server.<\/p>\n

The \u201call day braised\u201d lamb orecchiette ($19) received accolades from my generally picky partner. The pulled tender lamb shank is served with roasted root vegetables and terrific sauce over delicious \u201clittle pig ear\u201d pasta with a toasted caraway and smoked paprika creme fraiche. The pasta, perfectly al dente, is a refreshing change to the usual potato accompaniment for this sort of dish.<\/p>\n

Desserts are equally engaging, with my favorite being the \u201cever changing\u201d creme brul\u00e9e ($7); then again, maybe it\u2019s the molten lava chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream ($8), or the mixed berry crisp ($6), or the perennial crowd-pleaser, tiramisu ($7). Many thanks to chef-owner Jeff Buerhaus, partner Cheryl Buerhaus, and barman\/wine connoisseur Steve Lovenguth for a memorable and satisfying dining experience.<\/p>\n

Walter\u2019s, 15 Exchange Street, Portland. Lunch Monday-Saturday 11:30-2:30, dinner Sunday-Saturday 5 p.m.-close. 871-9258 or www.waltersportland.com<\/a><\/p>\n

*Walters has moved to\u00a0\u00a02 Portland Square since this review<\/p>\n

\"Bookmark<\/a>