![\"empire\"](\"http:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/empire.jpg\")
<\/a>From 1916 to 1953, spanning two World Wars, the famous Empire Chop Suey was a fixture on the corner at 575 Congress Street. Not only was this a soldiers\u2019, sailors\u2019, and locals\u2019 attraction, there\u2019s even a tradition this luminous corner of the Forest City was one of the inspirations for Edward Hopper\u2019s 1927 painting Chop Suey<\/em> (yes, he was in Maine then\u2013see our story in September 2010, and our letter in this issue, page 16, featuring New York\u2019s claim).<\/p>\nFast-forward to today. After six desultory decades, a chic descendent of this historic eatery returns. The Empire strikes back!<\/p>\n
It\u2019s high concept\u2013think Thelonious Monkfish in Cambridge without the \u2018menu blow.\u2019 The ECK\u2019s interior d\u00e9cor is a fusion of Asian notes, trendy industrial, and rustic overtones. The music ranges from rockabilly to gothabilly and R & B. The guiding spirit here seems to be Gordon Ramsay\u2019s rule that a restaurant discovers its greatness with a \u201csmall menu, few ingredients, high quality, and surprisingly low price for that quality.\u201d<\/p>\n
Because it was our first time here, we asked owner Theresa Chan to give us a sample of Dim Sum and small plates that three of us could devour\u2013and oh, yes, we were in a hurry. Fifteen minutes okay?<\/p>\n
Inspired, she brought us her ingenious Empire Eggrolls (\u201clocal beef pastrami, asparagus, cabbage, honey Dijon\u201d), a wondrous solution for East Meets West. Who knew someone could invent a way to enjoy a fried pastrami sandwich without the guilt? (A sharp knife is provided so you can share\u2026) The Honey Walnut Shrimp are mouth-watering, the Spinach Dumplings in steam baskets so fun and tasty we were already planning our next trip back.<\/p>\n
The Green Beans\u2013\u201croasted garlic, salted daikon\u201d\u2013roared with color. The Pork Dumplings feature coriander and spring onion, deep and sweet; and there\u2019s a special technique for eating the Shanghai Soup Dumplings. First, pierce the dumpling when you bite to sip the soup, then dip the dumpling in a red sauce to complete the experience, which resonates almost three-dimensionally with this block of downtown: While dining, we take in the glassy storefronts of Peek-A-Boo Tattoo, Darkworkz, Otto, Strange Maine, and Springer\u2019s Jewelers.<\/p>\n
Large plates intrigue with eureka jolts like Lobster Longevity Noodles with Tequila Sauce and Bacon Fried Rice with local bacon, sweet corn, and spring onion.<\/p>\n
What a blast\u2013fast, friendly, flexible, able to handle an impossibly quick lunch request. The words painted on the wall, \u201cYum Cha,\u201d loosely translate to \u201cDrink tea\u201dor \u201cTea tasting,\u201d though there\u2019s a full bar. Who wouldn\u2019t want to try the Oolong martinis, along with elixirs like Hu Shangs and Shiso Crazy? Everything feels right about this place, from the inside out. Damages for our memorable lunch for three: $40.<\/p>\n