![\"lolita_portland\"](\"http:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/lolita_portland.jpg\")
<\/a>The open-sesame to Lolita is a simple metal door. Architect Lauren Reiter, whose husband Neil Reiter co-owns Lolita with chef and proprietors Guy and Stella Hernandez, is responsible for the revelation inside. Lighting, colors, and fixtures contribute to a relaxed, elegant experience. There is table seating for 20, with 10 more at the bar.<\/p>\nThe centerpiece, an enormous grill roaring with flames (kiln-dried red oak, about a cord a month), is fitted with steel racks that are raised or lowered with a neat little wheel. It\u2019s fascinating to watch and central to Lolita\u2019s experience, \u201cvinoteca + asador<\/em>\u201d\u2013Spanish for good wine and a specialty in grilling.<\/p>\n There\u2019s a bright red deli slicer. A menu category \u201cFrom the Slicer\u201d features cured meats, imported and local (jamon<\/em> Serrano $12 and salumi $6.50 each, or 3 for $18). These include bresaola<\/em>, crespone<\/em>, and finochietta<\/em>, sliced to order. Violino di capra<\/em>, is a cured meat that translates to \u201cgoat violin\u201d because the leg is shaped like a violin. Traditionally, it\u2019s passed around and held like an instrument, each diner cutting meat with a knife-as-bow. Our violino<\/em> is actually lamb and exudes deep, pleasant flavors.<\/p>\n We proceed to \u201cToasts, Pots, and Snacks\u201d ($4 each or 3 for $10) and try a tasty steak tartare and a mix of local mushrooms with thyme and garlic confit. A little pot of velvet-smooth chicken liver mousse follows with full, round flavors. Spreading it on warm sourdough bread, the deal is sealed.<\/p>\n We ask our server, Montana, about the mousse\u2019s ingredients. He reports graciously that \u201cGuy says he\u2019ll be happy to give you the recipe.\u201d Well, now, that\u2019s refreshing.<\/p>\n As is the Bodegas Lan Rioja Crianza 2011 tempranillo ($11\/glass), which proves to be a good accompaniment for the entire dinner.<\/p>\n We leap over the smalls ($9 each), reluctantly bypassing marrow bones with pea shoots, to the mediums ($14 each), from which we order heirloom beans with pork belly and duck confit. The flavor-absorbing result is a bowlful of smoky goodness.<\/p>\n We watch as hardshell clams are placed on the grill and basted with a butter, wine, and fresh herb mixture as they open ($14).<\/p>\n On to \u201cLarge\u201d ($24), as we share the evening\u2019s asado<\/em>\u2013grilled hanger steak on a bed of zesty salsa verde surrounded by very good roasted vegetables which we request in lieu of fingerlings. Lolita is flexible\u2013you can get what you want here.<\/p>\n Desserts that beckon include cheesecake mousse, rhubarb, toasted oats ($7), chocolate cake with amaretto cream ($7), gelato with shot of espresso ($5), and warm milk and cookies ($4). A good selection of farm cheeses ($5 each, 3 for $13) includes Lakin\u2019s Gorges Prix de Diane from Rockport and Green Mountain Blue Cheese Madison from Vermont.<\/p>\n We complete the meal with cocktails as a sweet finale. \u201cDe La Louisiane #2\u201d ($10) is a mix of bourbon, benedictine, sweet vermouth, Peychaud\u2019s Bitters, pernod rinse, and an in-house brandied cherry.<\/p>\n I choose \u201cThe Last Word\u201d ($10)\u2013Gin, chartreuse, luxardo, and lime. Delicious. The last word here, for Lolita, and us, is Yes.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" July\/August 2014 Grill On The Hill Sparks fly at the East End’s newest hot spot. Review by Diane Hudson The open-sesame to Lolita is a simple metal door. Architect Lauren Reiter, whose husband Neil Reiter co-owns Lolita with chef and proprietors Guy and Stella Hernandez, is responsible for the revelation inside. Lighting, colors, and fixtures […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":9899,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[84],"class_list":["post-9898","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-reviews","tag-julyaugust-2014"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9898","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=9898"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9898\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9992,"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9898\/revisions\/9992"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/9899"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=9898"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=9898"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.portlandmonthly.com\/portmag\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=9898"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}