Bella Cucina reviewed by Diane Hudson Feb 2002 At Bella Cucina, as in owner Jim Ledue's earlier Alberta's, The Good Egg Cafe, Planets, and Bella Bella, one is immediately embraced by the work of fine local artists (Steven Priestly's Tromp L'oeils abound along with paintings by Fred Lynch, Bob Solotaire, and a host of others). And given Ledue's standard setting reputation, it's no surprise to find rich visual pleasure vibrating successfully with culinary works of art as well, such as his incredible squash soup ($2.95). Smoky and roasted with tangy, crisp chili-spiced pumpkin seeds, it jumps with the colorful fragrant touch of fresh dill. "It wasn't so easy to find fresh herbs back in the Alberta's days!" Ledue notes. Bella Cucina's "starters and sides" could easily accomodate an evening's dining. - we enjoyed a number of them, and they can be ordered combined as a "sampler" if one chooses. The Bruschetta with Herbed Goat Cheese, Smoked Salmon and Truffle Oil ($6.95) was as divine as it sounds, as were the Roasted Portobello Caps and Olympia Bay Oysters with Prosciutto-Parmesan Crust ($4.95). The Wood Grilled House Sausage (veal and rabbit), smoky and complex in flavor is beautifully served on seared greens with fresh apricot agrodolce ($5.95). How could we not try the Pan Seared Calamari, delicious and tender, colorfully and tastefully accompanied by fresh tomato, pepperoncini, and garlic ($5.95). We enjoyed a Mixed Grill of Roast Duck, Lamb Rib Chops, and Sirloin ($17.95) and a truly rustic Italian dish consisting of roasted Veal and Pork Meatballs served with Tomato Sauce on Linguine ($10.95). The meatball flavor was enhanced by the addtion of pine nuts, and of course innumerable herbs, and the marinara starts you humming your favorite aria. The mixed grill also available as a Sea Grill of Salmon, Swordfish, and Scallops with Salsa Verde ($16.95), will satisfy my outdoor cooking cravings for many a day, althoug I find that I am even now ready to return to this smoky delight. All was nicely complimented by a bottle of Old Vines Cuvee Zinfandel 1997 ($24), selected from a thoroughly considered wine menu reflecting the overall feeling of Bella Cucina: tasteful, generous and offering excellent value. A restauranteur with timeless offerings endures; Ledue with his moveable feast, still keeps playing our song. Bella Cucina, 653 Congress St. Portland, (207) 828-4033