The Dogfish Cafe reviewed by Diane Hudson October 2003 The Dogfish Cafe has transformed long-neglected Merdeckπs on the corner of Congress and St. John into the surprise of the season. Boasting an eclectic, affordable menu, Dogfish ≠ shark, for the less sentimental among us - is sure to delight Portlandπs discriminating diners. Zesty blackboard specials surface after 5 p.m., accompanying the well-crafted ongoing entrees fit for any palate or pocketbook. When we sailed in, we were enticed by specials like Onion Crusted Salmon with Mandarin Cream Sauce ($11.95) and Grilled Boneless Pork Loin with Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes ($10.95). But first we tore into the Half Rack Pork Ribs ($7.95), a tasty starter trimmed with good creamy cole slaw. The Tuscan Salad ($7.95), generously laden with fresh mozzarella, prosciutto, roasted peppers, red onions, and greens tossed in a savory balsamic vinaigrette with toasted pine nuts and calamata olives, was also deeply satisfying. We next devoured the Grilled Chicken Sandwich ($6.95), a nicely marinated breast, perfectly served with vine-ripe tomato slices, arugula, smoked mozzarella, and basil aioli on top of tender, flavorful focaccia. While slightly cool, the fried chips were nonetheless a fine accompaniment. The wine list is innovative and reasonably priced, ranging from South African ≥Goats do Roam≤ ($17) to Kendall Jackson Chardonnay ($24). A return visit to try the Open Faced Chicken Quesadilla ($6.95) ≠ grilled chicken, apple-smoked bacon, fresh tomatoes, scallions, and black beans, the lot topped with jack cheese and seasoned sour cream ≠ affirmed our first take on Dogfish: itπs a great catch for Portland. Bravo! Dogfish CafÈ, 953 Congress Street. 253-5400.