Fuji reviewed by Diane Hudson Nov. 2003 Fuji Restaurant, in the heart of the Old Port, has a last seating at 9:45 p.m., which makes it a perfect combination with a night out at The Movies on Exchange Street. Inspired and hungry from our film, we started with an appetizer of Shrimp and Vegetable Tempura ($5.50). Two large shrimp, zucchini, squash, and broccoli were dipped in a light batter and deep-fried to perfection. The Miso soup ($1.50) was the perfect prelude to our Seaweed Salad ($4.50): crunchv, piquant, nutty, bright green strings of freshness. This "Japanese-style seasoned seaweed" is like nothing in our "salad" vernacular and like everything you want to experience again. We enjoyed these flavors with a large (but nicely-sized) warm sake ($7). I have never found another beverage to work as well with Japanese flavorings (I am not a I beer drinker). Wine, for me, is totally out of the question, although Fuji offers an ample selection of fine wines, reasonably I priced. Sake, a fermented rice brew native to Japan, nicely accentuates the subtle flavors of this cuisine, particularly with the offerings from the sushi bar. In fact, we launched into the Sushi Sashimi Combination ($24.95), an almost inordinately beautiful display of the finest, freshest, colorful mixture of a most imaginative selection of 33 gifts from the sea, from octopus to freshwater eel sashimi, mouthwatering Yellowtail salmon, to dark red tuna. Five lovely Maine shrimp jitterbugged with sashimi tuna and plentiful pieces of California Maki, mackerel, whitefish, and surf clam. Our server, Michael San, who had earlier graciously invited us to sit at a larger table, remained helpful throughout, even coming i to the table and mixing the soy sance with the wasabe in our dipping bowls. The co-owner, Korean-born Kenneth Kim, recently joined Fuji (in March, , 2002) after a visit he made to Portland a from Manhattan with his wife. "We thought, wouldn't it be wonderful to live in a place like this? When the Fuji opportunity came along, there was no hesitation. "I love it here he says. It shows. Fuji Restaurant, 29 Exchange Street, Portland. Open 7 days, lunch and dinner. (207) 773-2900