MIMS A feast of the unusual sparkles on the Portland waterfront. Reviewed By Diane Hudson 12/04 Mims, at 205 Commercial Street, is one of Portlandπs hottest restaurants, made even more popular by what owner Natasha Durham calls "a sharing menu," with portions designed for the romantic enjoyment for two. Make no mistake: this is a top-notch oasis of high cuisine for diners bent on serious celebrating and culinary collaborating. Some places have åcooks.π Mims is under the direction of an incredibly creative chef, Joe Boudreau, and yes, the difference is stunning. We began with two meat dishes selected from "First Courses." The duck leg confit ($9) proved superb, served on a bed of delicately seasoned mirepoix. A generous portion of pan-seared fois gras (duck torchon, $14) was accompanied by diced pear and a grainy mustard-based sauce. Next, we dove into the cauliflower in bread crumbs, served in a small skillet and sautÈed in anchovy butter ($6), and brussels sprouts in bacon lardon ($6), which were wonderful. But as wonderful as the introductions were, the star of this gastronomic exploration was the braised rabbit ($19). Prepared with fresh sage and bing cherries, with the loin grilled, it was astoundingly good, nicely accompanied by our starch choice, organic butte gnocchi ($5), and super spinach braised in garlic and olive oil ($4). All meat at Mims is naturally raised and comes from local purveyors including Sunset Acres Farms, Jurgielewicz Duck Farm, and Bradlee Ranch. Unusual dessert choices include chevre cheesecake, banana brulÈe tart, and assorted sorbets ($7 to $8), but we were seduced instead by an incredible cheese menu ($4 for 1, $10 for 3, $17 for 5), selecting the superb Bayley Hazen blue cheese from Jasper Hill Farm in Greensboro, Vermont, served with pomegranate and a terrific bit of homemade bread. All of the above were well complemented with Heron St. Chinian Merlot ($26), selected from a luminous list heavily accented with French vintners. Dining upstairs by a great arched window overlooking the harbor and the pleasant cobblestoned street below was lus- cious, but the whole place resonates with warmth and good will; a very welcome retreat during these long wintery days. Great before a show and just as great as the show. Bon appetit! Mims, 205 Commercial Street, Portland. Seven days a week, lunch and dinner. 347-7478.