Elda in Biddeford is more than just buzz.

October 2019

By Colin W. Sargent

I hear a wag whisper it as we enter Elda, the bistro at 140 Main Street. “Is Biddeford the new Old Port?” Then the quip: “No, there’s parking.”

Even without eavesdropping, the enthusiasm is catching. This place is packed. The exposed brick walls, tin ceilings, and bustling acoustics add to the sensation of discovery. We start with an Elder Fashioned ($12), fun and not too sweet, and a glass of Bhilar Rioja ($14)—spicy and conversation-starting—but they are overshadowed by two glasses of Tascante Nerello Mascalese ($13), grown on the slopes of Mt. Etna, Sicily—balanced, earthy, dreamy, sensational.

The menu tonight is prix fixe–four courses, $64 per person—or you can order from the imaginative bar menu. For appetizers, we try the Lobster Fried Hand Pie (think lobster samosas) and the Grilled and Raw Lobster—sweet and velvety. We are treated to the first of three amuse-bouches: a mug of Corn Cob Miso broth. Things are getting interesting! We choose Bluefin Tuna with fresh heirloom tomatoes, kelp, and crispy nori. We also select the Grilled Squid with sweet corn porridge and green chili. The background porridge is tangy and memorable. Our plates are whisked away, and a dense Melon Sorbet garnished with a delicate, dehydrated melon slice takes their place.

We enjoy the Grilled Swordfish with roasted eggplant. Our favorite proves to be the Roasted Cod with chanterelles, sweet potato, and broth. Corn flour Cookies with homemade red currant jam are a sensual diversion while we prepare for our just desserts: (three) Maine cheeses (from a Waldoboro farm) and Japanese Cheesecake with wild blueberries. The cheesecake is fragrant, more perfumed than sweetened. If you’re looking for somewhere daring and creative in the demilitarized zone between Portland and the Kennebunks, you’ve found it. Cost of dinner for two is $203. n

Elda, 140 Main Street, Biddeford. Tuesday–Saturday 5:30 p.m.–9 p.m. 494-8365.
Reservations recommended.