Cheers D e c e m b e r 2 0 1 8 5 7 Adobe stock: Sergey Three Champagne points of reference for your New Year’s celebration. By Ralph Hersom L et’s start by having you repeat after me: “All Champagne is sparkling wine, but not all sparkling wine is Champagne.” In order for a wine to be labeled “Champagne,” it must come from the Champagne region of France and follow the rules and regulations under that ap- pellation. Sure, there are lots of great sparkling wines produced around the world—Prosecco and Cava—but none reaches the heights of perfection that Champagne does. Doubt me? Pour for yourself and sample these recommendations. Author disclosure: Champagne is my “desert-is- land wine,” so I might be a bit biased in writing this month’s column. Jacquesson Cuvée 740 Extra Brut Champagne NV (Bow Street Beverage, $84.49): Run by broth- ers Jean-Herve and Laurent Chiquet, this truly fa- natical grower/producer is located in Dizy. The Champagne made from a blend of 43 percent Char- donnay, 30 percent Pinot Meunier, and 27 percent Pinot Noir that combine beautifully with flavors of pear and grapefruit with an almost salty oyster- shell minerality. Francois Seconde Grand Cru Brut Rosé Champagne NV (Browne Trading Market, $77): A fabulous husband-and- wife team creates this beauty made from 100 percent Pinot Noir grown in the Montagne de Reims. Red berry and orange zest aromas with a creamy tex- ture on the palate and loads of finesse make this a perfect pairing for grilled salmon or roast duck with a cher- ry sauce. Miniscule production of only 4,000 bottles a year makes this a rare gem worth seeking. Pierre Moncuit Brut Champagne 2004 (Browne Trading Market, $60): Located in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, in the heart of the Côte des Blancs, this delicious Champagne is made from 100 percent Grand Cru Chardonnay grown in 2004 vintage. Elegant, lots of finesse, and steely minerali- ty are some apt descriptors for this wine. It’s perfect for an aperitif, as it’s the lightest of the three Cham- pagnes featured. n Pop Life