Everyday Sommelier O c t o b e r 2 0 1 7 5 9 sigrid verbert - cavolettodibruxelles.it; erin little The Diamond of the Kitchen “T he Diamond of the Kitch- en”–that is how the late, great French gourmet Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin referred to the prized tar- tufo bianco–the white truffle. And with prices soaring over $2,000 per pound, it’s not hard to see why! October marks the beginning of white truffle season, which lasts a mere two months, making this deli- cacy an elusive and valuable commodity. The Langhe hills in northwest Italy’s Pied- mont region, particularly around the town of Alba, are the best place to find this unique type of fungus that grow underground around the roots of trees–the best being oak. Truffles only grow wild underground and around the roots of trees like oak, and no cultivation techniques have been successfully de- veloped. Harvesting is usu- ally done early in the morn- ing or at night because the trifolao, truffle hunters, want to keep their favorite spots a secret from other foragers. After all, it’s serious business; each truffle hunter must pass an exam in order to receive a 10-year permit to hunt. Up until 1985, the triafolao used sows to search out the fungus, harnessing the pig’s powerful sense of smell to locate truffles from over three feet below the surface. However, the scent of the tartufo bianco, which contains the same chemical as boar testosterone, drove female pigs into such a frenzy they frequently damaged or devoured the rare fungus. These days, specially trained dogs Occasionally, the food steals the show–even for a sommelier. Welcome to truffle season. By Ralph Hersom