(855)912-8130 Portland after dark 36 p o r t l a n d monthly magazine one is aware of it in the bistro.” But there’s a lot to be said for a pri- vate flame. In the fine dining part of the White Barn Inn, “We have a banana souf- flé wrapped inside a crêpe.” Here, it’s less showy but no less romantic. It’s another ta- bleside experience, “presented with two ba- nanas that have been brûléed. Finally, My- ers Rum is lit and poured (while still flam- ing) onto the plate.” Beyond the fire, what’s the trick to flam- bé? “People will never stop loving flambé if you do it right. It’s done right, I would say, if you keep it classic–not necessarily classy but classic.” Aguirre agrees flambé went dark over the last decade, but he considers the dis- appearance the exception, not the rule. “A lot of things ‘went away’ after the crisis in 2008.” Once the shadow of the stock-mar- ket plunge started directing the market, “Efficiency in cost was the biggest driver in our industry.” Not the greatest news for ro- mantic diners. “Fine dining with tableside presentation took such a massive hit that it almost disappeared for a while. It’s some- thing I love to do, just as I love salt-crust- ed whole fish served at tableside, where you debone for the guests.” Do your classic presentations include the famous 1980s show-stopper, Chateaubriand for two with baby vegetables? “We do that too, actually,” Aguirre says. “We have Chateaubriand on our bistro menu. We carve it for tableside, cooked to perfection–asparagus, mushrooms, a red wine jus. During the Recession, people were disinclined to order it because it seemed too extravagant. But many diners are rediscov- ering it as a wonderful way to celebrate. from top: chef derek bissonnette - white barn inn; leah fisher arsenault photography