119 Exchange Street | Portland, Maine 04101 | 207.808.8800 | thepresshotel.com s e p t e m B e r 2 0 1 8 1 1 3 rE ta ra t rE iE meaghan maurice gent Redentore sauvignon blanc from Italy ($11-$12 per glass). Lio’s tall, delicate stem- ware shows them well. Turning to hot dishes, olive-oil poached Maine Halibut is a delicate revelation ($17). The tender fillet sits atop puréed potato and fennel laced with bits of crabmeat, forming an island in a glass bowl pooled with shell- fish broth. The dish is subtle, yet the clean, fresh flavors are clear and concentrated. A dish of Squid Ink Spaghetti ($14) is a wonderful contrast. Black, tooth- some strands of fresh pasta are tossed with chopped razor clams, very ten- der, and Calabrian chili, anchovy, lemon, and parsley. It looks and tastes dramatic and bright. Our server, Carrie, has explained earli- er that, as at Stadler’s other establishments, dishes are delivered as they are turned out in the kitchen, and are intended as family- style, to be shared. This system worked well for us because we found it impossible not to taste everything. Lio’s ambitious menu includes such share-worthy starters as house-made potato chips with crème fraiche and caviar ($15), and potted foie gras ($24). There’s no short- age of meat and fowl, with such unexpect- ed choices as Frogs Legs ($10), Duck Breast with cherries ($15), Lamb Loin with pota- to gratin ($17), and even Sweetbreads with caramelized fennel ($16). There are so many reasons to return! We start winding down with a half-glass each of Spanish Bodegas Hermanosa Peci- na tempranillo ($7) and a Foris Rogue Val- ley Oregon pinot noir ($5.50) as we consid- er dessert. A square of mousse-like milk choco- late caraway tart shot with orange cara- mel, which is flanked by a scoop of toast- ed brioche ice cream and scattered with crunchy dark chocolate crumbs ($9), is an absolute show-stopper to conclude this delicious feast. ■ io,ser in dinner ed.throu h un.fro . . rin t., ort and io aine. o Editor’s note: This exceptional review was on Claire Z. Cramer’s computer after we tragically lost her just weeks ago. Her family generously provided it because all of us couldn’t bear not to share it with you. We’ve starred the interesting phrase “grilled-marked” as- paragus spears because Claire and I might have had a half-hour conversation about that, just one of many things we’ll miss about her. I’d likely have wondered if “grill-marked” were better, and she’d likely have pointed out my reductive POV as a diner. By using “grilled,” she’s emphasizing the creation, not just what it looks like afterward to a stranger. Because she wasn’t a stranger to words or food. She felt the process and the work behind it. She was bringing the dish all the way to you, the reader.