s u m m e r g u i d e 2 0 1 7 2 4 7 s u m m e r g u i d e 2 0 1 7 2 4 7 cLocKwise from toP Left: cHef cHadwicK diane Hudson courtes PHoto ted a eLrod Escape the City an evening at S g r in ca e eli abeth is an enchanting and restorative e erience. y diane hudS n T here’s a certain magic to a ho- tel restaurant that puts you in a get- away state of mind, even if you’re not on vacation. A drive to Cape Eliza- beth for dinner at Sea Glass Restaurant at the Inn by the Sea delivers the goods. The rambling cottage glamour and shimmer- ing seascape beyond the deck and gardens really are the cure for urban funk. We each begin with a martini: one Beefeater, one Tito’s, both bone-dry and straight up. Our waiter presents us with an amuse bouche–a dainty roasted mus- sel on the half shell dabbed with a smidgen of fresh grapefruit and a smear of spicy, peppery sauce. We sip and sample while checking out the fine selection of paintings around the dining room, many by local artists, including Eric Hopkins, Ed Doug- las, and Laurence Philip Sisson. Chef Andrew Chadwick comes to Maine by way of the Chatham Bars Inn on Cape Cod, and the menu reflects his com- mitment to sustainable local seafood. We share an appetizer of tiny lobster tacos ($16), each delicately crisp tortilla less than two inches across, standing upright on a dab of avocado puree and brimming with sweet chunks of lobster. The menu notes vegan, gluten-free, and pescetarian options. The daily catch, poached pollock in a vegan vegetable broth, sounds entirely above reproach but perhaps a bit too close to health food for us. We choose instead the salmon filet ($30), which arrives with gloriously crisp skin and a delicately translucent center. It’s served with a tender, caramelized roasted carrot, dabs of carrot purée, and a rather bland artichoke purée. While a sprinkling of granola is distracting, tiny orange pearls of salmon roe add a joyful zing. The sirloin steak ($38) is simply delicious, grilled to a juicy, rare perfection. The accompanying braised black barley is tasty and filling, if a little under-seasoned. Since we’re sharing the entrées, we choose red wine for the steak rather than a white for the fish, and sip glasses of silky, dark Josh Cabernet Sauvignon ($10). To fin- ish, we savor a rectangular chocolate finan- cier ($9). The delicate petit-four cake has a secret moist interior and comes garnished with whipped cream and fresh raspber- ries. It proves the perfect finale for watch- ing twilight repaint the colors of Crescent Beach. The setting, the meal, and the excep- tional service and hospitality have proven a welcome escape from the city. ■ ea lass estaurantat nnbythe ea o ery each oad ape li abeth. pendaily - p.m. riand at - p.m. - innbythesea.com